OPTIMALISASI PROSES RETANNING DAN FATLIQUORING PADA PENYAMAKAN KULIT BAHAN BAKU JAKET DENGAN SAMAK NABATI
Keywords:
Retanning, Fatliquoring, Tensile strength, Tear strength, Elongation, SoftnessAbstract
Leather is one of the raw materials that can be made for a wide variety of craft products, such as for the manufacture of jackets, shoes, bags and various accessories. This research was focused on improving the tensile strength, tear strength, elongation and softness of leather by means of the optimization of retanning and fatliquoring process on the jacket material using the vegetable tannin with lower cost. The retanning process functioned to enhance the tanning results and brought superior impact compared to the previous tanning materials so that the characteristic of physical leather such as tensile strength, tear strength, elongation and softness could be improved. While the fatliquoring process was intended to obtain the smoothness and flexibility of leather by putting the oil material into the structure of collagen fibers. The tests on the results of various treatments of leather in the retanning and fatliquoring process utilized the Indonesian National Standard (INS). The retanning process was done by adding the vegetable tanning materials with a concentration of 6 %, 8% and 10% of leather weight into
drums that contained the leather and for approximately 3 hours. Then, the fatliquoring process using the sulfited oil at 12%, 15% and 18% of leather weight which rotated in the drums for 2 hours then fixed by adding 1% formic acid. The results of the tensile strength test showed that the concentration of tannic material with 10% and oil material with 18% gave the highest value of tensile strength at 12.43 N/mm2 and the elongation test, the optimum result using tannic material concentration with 6% and oil material with 18% was gained at the level of 31.93%. In this research, it was used the Taguchi method and linear programming for its analysis. From the analysis of the Taguchi method was found that tannic material contributed to the tensile strength at the level of 14.33% and the oil material contributed to incline the leather elongation at level of 31.917%. The results of these tests showed that there was a significant influence of the retanning and fatliquoring process towards the increase of tensile strength, tear strength, elongation and softness.
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